Ductless Mini-Split Systems
No ducts? No problem. We engineer and install whisper-quiet, ultra-efficient ductless systems that bring clinical, room-by-room temperature control to Los Angeles ADUs, additions, and historic properties.
The Power of Inverter Technology
Standard air conditioners only have two speeds: 100% ON or 100% OFF. This creates uncomfortable temperature swings and wastes massive amounts of electricity during start-up.
Ductless mini-splits use Inverter Compressors. Think of it like a car's gas pedal rather than a light switch. The system dynamically ramps up and down to match the exact thermal load of the room, providing perfectly even temperatures while using significantly less energy than traditional central AC.
Whole-Home Multi-Zone Systems
You do not need a separate outdoor unit for every room. Modern multi-split systems allow us to connect up to four independent indoor air handlers (e.g., a living room, master bedroom, and two guest rooms) to a single, high-efficiency outdoor condenser. Every room gets its own thermostat, providing customized comfort and eliminating the "hot and cold spots" common in ducted central systems.
Perfect Applications for Los Angeles:
- ADUs & Guest Houses (Independent climate control)
- Converted Garages (No need to extend existing ducts)
- Historic Homes (Preserve architecture safely)
The Heat Pump Advantage
Ductless mini-splits aren't just air conditioners—they are high-efficiency, two-way heat pumps that provide powerful winter heating as well. Because California is moving rapidly toward electrification, upgrading to a ductless heat pump system unlocks access to massive federal tax credits and local utility rebates (like TECH Clean California).
Ask Us About Qualifying Rebates
Why ductless gets more latitude than a furnace
A ductless mini-split is a heat pump, and heat pumps are sized to a different tolerance than combustion equipment. The reason is worth understanding, because it explains why these systems behave the way they do.
A furnace should sit no more than 6 kBtuh over the calculated load. A heat pump is allowed 12 kBtuh over — double the headroom. That is because a variable-capacity heat pump does not simply switch on and off. It modulates, so extra capacity is available when it is genuinely cold without forcing short cycles the rest of the year.
There is a matching requirement at the other end. Where a system is variable or multi-speed, its low speed should sit at or below 80% of the load. That is what lets it run long and gentle at part load, which is where a mini-split does its best work — steady output, tight temperature control, and none of the noise and swing of something cycling hard.
In a climate like this one, a properly sized system frequently needs no supplementary heating at all. That is worth confirming rather than assuming, because backup resistance heat is expensive to run and easy to fit unnecessarily.
The Ductless Commissioning Standard
Ductless systems operate at incredibly high pressures and are highly sensitive to moisture. A rushed installation will result in immediate refrigerant leaks. We follow the strictest OEM manufacturing standards to ensure decades of flawless operation.
550 PSI Pressure Test
Before adding refrigerant, we pressurize your copper lines with dry nitrogen to exactly 550psi for a minimum of 1 hour to verify there are absolutely zero micro-leaks in the circuitry.
1-Hour Deep Evacuation
Moisture destroys inverter compressors. We use a dedicated vacuum pump to evacuate your system below 500 microns for a minimum of 1 hour, holding the vacuum to prove a perfectly tight seal.
Precision Torque Specifications
Every flare connection is cut exactly at a right angle and tightened with a torque wrench to exact foot-pounds (e.g., 45-5/8 ft-lbf for a 5/8" pipe) to eliminate the risk of slow refrigerant gas leaks.
Related reading
Ductless units are heat pumps, so the heating comparison applies to them too.
Heat Pump vs. Gas Furnace: Which Is Right for a Los Angeles Home?
Which one actually makes sense in a Los Angeles climate, and what the running costs really look like.
Read the article →The 'Static Pressure' Secret: Why Your HVAC System is Suffocating
The most common reason an AC runs all day without cooling has nothing to do with refrigerant.
Read the article →The AC 'Temperature Split' Test: How We Know Your System is Failing
One measurement tells you whether your system is actually working. Here is how to read it.
Read the article →Ductless Mini-Split FAQs
Do ductless mini-splits qualify for California heat pump rebates?
Frequently yes. Because ductless mini-splits use reversible heat pump technology to provide both cooling and efficient heating, many models qualify for California incentive programmes and federal tax credits. Amounts and eligibility change, so we confirm what currently applies to your address before you commit.
Are ductless mini-splits really better than window AC units?
Yes, significantly. Ductless systems use advanced Inverter Compressors that dynamically adjust to your room's thermal load rather than just turning 100% on or off. They are whisper-quiet, much more energy-efficient, and don't leave your home vulnerable to security risks like a window unit does.
Can I cool my whole house with ductless mini-splits?
Absolutely. Using a 'multi-split' condenser, we can connect multiple indoor air handling units (such as your living room, master bedroom, and guest rooms) to a single outdoor unit. This gives you completely independent temperature control in every room without needing ductwork.
How do you ensure the refrigerant won't leak on a ductless system?
With a two-step pressure and evacuation test. We first pressurise the refrigerant lines and hold that pressure to confirm there are no leaks. We then evacuate the system with a dedicated vacuum pump and verify the vacuum holds rather than climbing, which is what proves the joints are genuinely tight.
How is a ductless system sized?
From a load calculation, using heat pump tolerances. A heat pump may sit up to twelve thousand Btuh over the calculated load, double what a furnace is allowed, because variable capacity means the extra is there when needed without short cycling for the rest of the year.
Will I need backup heating with a ductless system?
In a climate like this one, frequently not. A correctly sized heat pump often covers the load on its own. It is worth confirming through the capacity analysis rather than assuming, because backup resistance heat is expensive to run and very easy to fit unnecessarily.
Do you insulate the copper pipes connecting the indoor and outdoor units?
Yes, always. We use closed-cell foam insulation made for refrigerant lines, and we insulate the gas and liquid lines separately rather than bundling them together. That prevents condensation dripping inside walls and stops the two lines exchanging heat with each other, which would waste capacity.
How do you connect the pipes to the ductless unit?
We use a specialized clutch-type flare tool to cut and flare the copper pipes at an exact right angle, removing all burrs to prevent chips from entering the pipe. We only apply R410A refrigeration oil to the inner surface of the flare—never mineral oil, which degrades the system—and tighten all connections with a precise torque wrench.
Can I put the outdoor unit anywhere in my yard?
No. The outdoor unit must be installed on a solid, level foundation to prevent vibration noise and ensure proper drainage. We also guarantee specific clearance spaces—such as keeping the unit at least 13-3/4 inches away from facing walls—to ensure unobstructed airflow and optimal heat exchange.